Camo for the Metro Man

2016 Update

Father’s Day is June 19, 2016.

So, here’s my tip for the Perfect Father’s Day Gift. A Camo Shirt/Jacket is The Gift a Dad, husband, brother, boy friend, will wear.  Whether he is a farmer or a  Silicon Valley CEO (especially if he’s in the ‘Valley’), and you can borrow it too.

Camo for the Metro Man

Camo for the Metro Man

 

2016 More

I’ve been writing about Camo since 2012–here and here–and it just doesn’t go away.  Valentino is on the bandwagon–those Italian men know how to dress

Valentino is featuring camo in the Spring Summer 2016 collection and one is a clone of my Camo for the Metro Guy.  Shame on you Valentino; I did it first!

But mine is the Real Deal, an authentic military shirt/jacket.

Totally original to Valentino is this messenger bag in an  Alpenflage European camo pattern.  Put a shoulder strap on this and it’s on my wardrobe!

Alpenflage Camo from Valentino

Alpenflage Camo from Valentino

Camo for the Metro Guy

An authentic camo, ripstop fabric shirt from an Eastern European army is the latest in my Etsy neupurposed camo shirts.  And was prompted by a need for a gift for a San Francisco Metro Guy.

Camo for the Metro Man

Camo for the Metro Man

The inspiration is a recent Wall Street Journal article with streetwear photos from Italy.  Those Italian Men are definitely Metro Guys.

My Metro Guy wouldn’t go for the puffer vest over a pinstripe; he wouldn’t even go for a pinstripe!  Smart guy!  But the Shirt Jacket will definitely fit in with the SF Marina crowd–not the ones in the Hoodies but those driving the discreet Audi, BMW, Mercedes.

Italian Streetwear, Camo for the Metro Guy

Italian Streetwear courtesy WSJ

I started with a typical military shirt, this one in a ripstop fabric.  The inspiration is the shirt jacket on the right, above.

I ruled out corduroy–raw edge, and polar fleece–cheap.  Ultra Suede is the perfect solution as can cut to fit the collar and pockets and not worry about what to do with the raw edges.  Turning under seam allowances would be a real pain, especially as the pockets as well as the collar are not ‘square’.

I started by measuring and making a paper pattern which I then fitted to the existing pockets.  The pockets weren’t perfectly square so shaved off edges to fit.  Ended up adjusting after dry fitting the ultra suede too.

 

Pockets

The pockets are cargo with the bellow on one side only.  Ultra suede was topstitched to the bellows side first, then topstitched to shirt.  The upper edge is held in place by the button, which was removed and restitched through both the pocket and ultra suede.

Camo for the Metro Guy

Ultra Suede topstitched to cargo pocket

 

Collar

The collar pattern was again drafted from the existing collar and refined with a dry fit.  The roll of the collar had to be accomodated so left approximately 1/8″ extra on the edge abutting the collar stand.  See the faint chalk line (below the short tape) indicating the roll line.  Steam-A-Seam was used to hold the ultrasuede in place.

Ultra a suede collar ready to fuse in place using Steam-A-Seam. A faint chalk line (below short tape) marks the roll line

Ultra a suede collar ready to fuse in place using Steam-A-Seam.
A faint chalk line (below short tape) marks the roll line

image

Activating Steam-A-Seam by pressing from wrong side; avoids press marks on ultra suede

Topstitching ultra suede collar on collar ends and outer edge with walking foot

Topstitching ultra suede collar on collar ends and outer edge with walking foot

I topstitched the collar ends and outer edge and then checked the collar fit by rolling the collar.imageIn the flat position, the ultra suede covers the collar stand stitching.  However, the collar roll will take up the excess–turn-of-the-cloth phenomena.

Topstitching final edge allowing extra fabric (see bubble) for turn-of-the-cloth

Topstitching final edge by butting ultra suede to collar stand seam, allowing extra fabric to bubble to right of presser foot for turn-of-the-cloth

Finished Collar--back view

Finished Collar–back view

Finished collar--inside view

Finished collar–inside view

Camo for the Metro Man

Neupurposed Camo Shirt Jacket The pocket flap has a convenient opening for hanging Shades

 

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