As promised, a review of the Oscar Retrospective.
Visited the de Young Museum in San Francisco last week to take in the Oscar de la Renta Retrospective. Mr. de la Renta (1932-2014) was an internationally known fashion designer from Dominican Republic who rose to prominence in the sixties as one of the couturiers who dressed Jacqueline Kennedy.
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar and me
Watch for my review; heading there today, but first, coffee & Morning Bun at the Cafe.
In the meantime, go here for an overview.
Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective
through May 30, 2016
Follow my blog so you don’t miss a first hand report.
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As I’ve said, have never met a FB page or a blog I didn’t like. The Inbox is overflowing every morning, but, that is how I like it!
I’m retired now but even when working, the first thing I do in the morning is check email–don’t we all.
This is a quick skim; most can be deleted or starred for later.
FYI: Most of my Internet reading is done on the iPad in the Safari browser; I don’t care for the Facebook app as I can’t do what is shown below.
But how do I keep up with it all ????? “They Say” one shouldn’t spend more than 15 minutes a day on Social Media. Yeah, well, that isn’t going to happen! So, I try to be smart about how I go about it and weed out the garbage while I’m at it.
Also, I find myself reading fewer and fewer books as my reading is many shorter articles/pdfs from The Web.
2. The post I want to read is now open in a new tab; I’ll go back and read later. Meanwhile, I can go back to my Page list (neucarol) and continue skimming.
The examples below are from my email but works same if a web page.
Hope this helps you save and bookmark on the web. There’s nothing more frustrating than knowing you read it–somewhere–and saved it–somewhere–but Where!
What’s your favorite way to save and organize web stuff?
Thanx to Cloning for Couture for serving as an example–Beach Chic Wedding–a good read, fun fabric, sewing techniques, draping–something for everyone!
I have never met a blog popup or Follow request I didn’t like. My inbox is jammed every morning, and this is how I like it. I have eclectic tastes so not all are fiber related. Many of these you will find shared on my Facebook page.
I tend to just skim FB posts whereas I will take the time to read blogs. Therefore, have decided to blog about some of the most appealing articles to share with my Followers.
[wysija_form id=”1″]Who doesn’t know denim, like denim, wear denim.
This video is from the FIT website, a fascinating 5 minute history of a pair of 1840 denim pants. Continue reading
This vest has been carefully planned, contrary to the reversible leather vest (see here) which was an impluse purchase. Ever since I saw Fool for Fabrics marvelous red vest–she loves Red–the pattern, trims, pockets, fabric, were always in my head.
I’m not the only one inspired by Margy, Fool for Fabrics, Just saw Shams teal vest inspired by another of FFF vests.
The fabrics I chose are all polyester, soft and the outer fabric is textured with stitching to created a star pattern. All of these contribute to an easy care, non-crush garment.
Green Vest
Lining Side, Back
Saving on Shopping Dollars is Easier that Ever
Who doesn’t like saving money and with the advent of online coupons, Ebates, store discount, and cash-back credit cards it’s easier that ever.
Here is how I save money through Stacking–using several coupons, discounts on one purchase. I have had to change my online shopping habits by starting at the Ebates page. However, websites that accept Ebates now display the Ebates Logo in the upper right corner. So, if you forgot to access page through Ebates, just click on the Ebates logo to get the purchase discount.
Here’s how I do it online:
1. Begin at the Ebates website and search for store; make purchase. 2. Or, begin at store’s website; look for Ebates logo in top right corner, purchase. 3. Apply any coupons (like RetailMeNot), store discounts. Get your Jo-Ann VIP card here. 4. Purchase with cash-back credit card.
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Refer and Earn: Clicking on this Ebates link will take you to Ebates website where you can sign up for your own account. Once you make a purchase, I receive a bonus.
In return, you can also earn a bonus. Click on the REFER AND EARN tab on website, to invite your friends to join. Hey, it’s a Pyramid scheme; this one is legal.
Yes they can! Click HERE to go to Ebates website and link your credit card (a cash-back card) to the store. Then shop with that card at the bricks and mortar store.
Click on the captions on the following websites for more information. There are lots more out there so do your own research. And ask your favorite stores for discount cards.
Please leave a comment to share your favorite cash-back rewards.
This is the stash I schlepped along on my snowbird getaway. I just grabbed the most *convenient fabric–the ones scattered across the cutting table, ironing board, floor…
Carefully curated projects*
Sewing in temporary quarters is a bit of a hassle but it all worked out. One of the bedrooms became the Sewing Room with a small deck table as sewing machine surface. The bed acted as surface display; the kitchen table was the cutting surface. First thing I did was mail order a 18″ X 24″ cutting mat. The small size will now travel with me as it fits flat in the car trunk. Made sure mat was on sale (Joanns), had free shipping, used Ebates, and credit card rewards. That’s known as stacking. Continue reading
I have predictive powers! The release of Pantone 2016 colors(s) proves it! Just because I have foresight, doesn’t mean I have to like it. My reaction was an emphatic YUK!!!, as I’m a neutral person with pops of bright, intense color.
Pantone 2016 Colors
First time two colors have been chosen.
Wasn’t planning on sewing Christmas gifts–other than PJs for The Grands–until I spied some Minnesota word print fabric at a Christmas boutique. A stop at the local quilt shop and I walked out with several Minnesota themed fabrics to mix and match for an apron gift. Knew it would have to be a ‘quick to make’ project and fabric glue is at the top of the list for quickies.
Apron finished with glued bias binding
Even Sewing Teachers take classes. At my recent class, looked in an adjoining classroom and spied a familiar red head that turned out to be Sandra Betzina, buried in pattern puzzles and having the time of her life. As she puts it so succinctly, “You never know enough.”
Recently, The Association of Sewing and Design Professionals held their 2015 Conference, The Fine Art of Sewing and Design, in Minneapolis. Although I’m not a professional sewist, I jumped at the chance to take a sewing class, especially as the conference was so convenient.
I’ve gotten out of the habit of taking classes, thinking I know everything! 😎 And, don’t have the time! And, it’s too expensive! And, can take an online class! And, can follow books/DVDs. And, and, and…
This time I had the time, an online class was not available, and I freed up the money. Funny how that can work out.
Also, a 1997 vintage Linton Tweed is desperate to become a wearable jacket on my back.
Therefore, I chose That Chanel Jacket by Claire Shaeffer, a two day, hands-on class.
Claire modeling a ‘Real’ Chanel Cardigan from her collection
I want to share my experience of getting up close and personal, inside a RTW Oscar de la Renta designer gown scored at an estate sale.
The Dress.
Auditioning Shoes
And what a pleasure it was. First, because it reinforced everything I’ve learned over the years. And, secondly, because it showed that I am fully capable of sewing a similar gown–if I so chose–thanks to my sewing education.
I can’t begin to list all the teachers who have contributed to my sewing education as I began sewing at 10, so first credit goes to Mom; then Junior High Home Economics classes, on to College of Home Economics, University of Minnesota, and, the most important, The American Sewing Guild, established in 1978. I am a charter member of the Minneapolis/St. Paul Chapter of the American Sewing Guild, the third chapter of the national organization organized in 1979. Through ASG, I, and all my fellow sewing enthusiasts, had/have access to terrific educators; some are national personalities; others are regional and local. All are marvelous educators!
By the way, the ASG tag line is Advancing Sewing as an Art and a Life Skill. How appropriate; it is an Art and something I can continue to practice and enjoy even though various body parts don’t function so well. The bionic knee does bend enough to use the sewing machine foot pedal. Yay!!!!
This is a what I would call a cocktail dress; that’s what we called them in the 60s. It’s a special event gown from Oscar de la Renta. Don’t have a date but the feather trim indicates a recent date. Perhaps someone recognizes a code on the label to date the dress.
The fabric is a silk faille lined in a silk taffeta. There are no fiber labels so am assuming Silk due to the ‘feel’ and ‘look’. Sorry, didn’t due a fiber test.
Label and lingerie guides– keep bra back from creeping above top of gown
Gown front
Gown back
The gown back is a panel running from top to bottom. It is shaped with tucks that are unstitched at the top and then folded down to shaping a V back and a clever, yet simple, embellishment. The tucks are stitched to the waist and left open to hem forming a subtle bustle effect.
Close up of back detail
Back tucks folded up to reveal un-stitched portion.
Note the side waist seam that continues around to the front where a plain front panel runs from top to bottom. The front and back panels contribute to princess seam shaping.
This is the back of the gown showing the taffeta lining. The lower third of the skirt lining is a separate piece stitched to main lining to protect the wearer from the stiff horsehair braid which is between the gown and this piece of lining.
The gown is closed with an invisible underarm zipper.
Inside the Gown
Under the protective (next to body) lining. This is the part of the lining that maintains the skirt fullness.
Closeup of wide horsehair braid encased in the lining hem. This supports the fullness of the skirt–thus the bell-shape of the skirt.
Waist Stay, lining, label.
Other inside support–full lining, waistline stay ribbon that hooks together over the zipper.
The waistline stay holds the garment at the waist, especially important for strapless gowns. The strapless gown–and this one too–can’t slide further than the waist. And, if properly boned, won’t sag
Sew-in interfacing at front neck and armscye
Interfacing at front neck and armscye is a loosely woven gauzy fabric, cut on the straight grain–see raveled edges. Couldn’t get into the tucked back neck but doesn’t feel as if there is any interfacing. Remember, this is a very firm, crisp, stable fabric.
In this photo, the top of the garment is folded back over the skirt lining to show seam finishes–none. Although the one lining SA on the Right does appear to be pinked. Other SA were 5/8″ and raw–read as lots of fraying. Also see the unclipped threads! Yes! I very seldom neaten up the inside of my garments, especially if lined.
Pheasant feather hem embellishment
Feather trim is finished on inside with hem tape and lace hem tape; the lace is hand-stitched to faille. No stitches show through to right side–the beauty of faille.
Inside finish of feather trim
How practical–tissues, keys, cash, iPhone–would fit…but, maybe not a good idea. There are times when we just need to disconnect.
Made a summer dress with pockets and Love them. Will now include whenever practical.
FYI: The weird diagonal black object on left of photo is an Eames Bird
POCKETS
Would really like to hear about your forays into RTW Designer fashion. Please share as we all learn from How It’s Made.
Happy Sewing!
PS: Eames Bird
Me, Hamlet–the Great Dane, and a mimosa
Are you frustrated when you can’t find the exact pattern design you can see so clearly in your mind? So am I! And for years, I have solved the problem by ‘glomming’ pattern pieces and putting them together into a totally new design.
GLOM verb (used with object), glommed, glomming. to steal to catch or grab to look at
Never would I admit this nefarious practice–until now. The cover of the September 2015 issue of Threads Magazine features Pattern Grafting, Combine the Parts You Love.
Grafting–an elegant, affirmative term for my covert actions. And, if Threads devotes pages to the practice, that is the ultimate approval.
Whew! I am coming out! There, I feel better.
Am feeling so pleased that a sweater started in January (2015) is completed!!!!
Have to admit there are several–well, maybe a few, alright a lot of UFOs in my knitting stash dating back before some of you were born. I am serious! I am, after all, older than dirt!
This crocheted sweater got started in January with many set backs. It’s a self-striping cotton, rayon and silk tweedy yarn.
Plymouth Yarn Kudo
Began with a top-down crochet pattern but the step-up join was less than attractive.
In-the-round join
Switched patterns to a front, back, sleeve, bottom-up crochet.
This worked much better and starting with the sleeves, was able to start at same colorway so both sleeves match; this was a fluke as wasn’t able to get it right for the front and back. Believe me I tried; undid, crocheted, undid, crocheted, ad infinitum, until I just said, “the heck with it. It is what it is.”
Sleeve, a good place to start. If you need to tear it apart, it’s a small redo.
When it came to the neckline, rather than tying off at each side, I carried the yarn across and cut, knotted and added beads after joining shoulder seams. This was mainly to continue the striping on both sides. Now that it’s done, the small amount of yarn to stop, knot, cut, is probably similar to carrying across; time spent too. But do like the beaded yarns at neck.
Yarn carried across at neckline
Neck ended up too large so threaded a suede string through and cinched it up.
Neckline
Also, added clear elastic at shoulders, both to tighten neck and grip shoulder to keep from sliding off.
Clear elastic zigzag stitched to about 1.5″ on each side of shoulder seam
Sweater
See, the side seam mismatch is not that bad. It’s a Design Element. The white tank top will be ditched. Really see this as a swimsuit coverup anyway.
The pants were made at least five years ago from a cotton/lycra purchased at Britex. They were originally wide-legged (just when skinny legs were coming in) and this year I revamped them to a narrower leg–from 24″ to 16″–just when wide legs are coming in. What can I say, always was ahead of the times/trends.
I buy thread when it is on sale and have lots of this variegated embroidery thread. It was on the serger so amped up these pants to Custom–even if I am the only one who knows. Well, now you do.
Serged seam finish
Here’s a closeup of the seam finishes and slubbed fabric.
Isn’t it pretty?!
A bit of trivia: they are pants in US & Australia; pants (panties, knickers) in UK refer to underwear. Trousers are a dressier, tailored version and have a matching jacket; slacks are also dressier than pants but do not necessarily have a matching jacket.
And there you have it!
In January of 2009, The Brooklyn Museum officially transferred its rich and diverse American and European costume collection to The Metropolitan Museum of Art, its New York City neighbor.
Brooklyn Museum
At that time, the widely acclaimed collection was integrated into the Costume Collection at The Met, but retained identification with its original owner and is now known as the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The Collection had not been exhibited since 1991, due to the financial constraints of maintaining and caring for one of the museums most cost intensive objects.
In 2014, the Met’s Costume Institute celebrated the opening of the $40 million revamped gallery and research center, the Anna Wintour Costume Center, named for Anna Wintour, Vogue Editor in chief. The Costume Center is a fitting home for the combined costume collections.
Ribbon Cutting Anna Wintour Costume Center, May 2014
The following explains the purpose of the Brooklyn Museum’s Costume Collection–to ‘serve both the art world and the industrial and design communities.’
Courtesy Legion of Honor
As mentioned in a previous blog, Grandma’s woodburning cook stove has resided in my garage for way too many years–25 or so. It’s time to fish or cut bait, in other words, either restore it or find a different home for it.
The South Bend
Finally found a nearby business whose only business is restoring vintage stoves, Mill Lake Metal Finishing near Long Prairie, MN. Although the business card states ‘Restore Metal Antiques, All Kinds’, a quick glance through the workshop only reveals stoves.
Mill Lake Metal Finishing
The proprietor is Brian Spandl who sort of invented his business after working for others building water craft. He began refinishing small metal pieces–teapots, creamers, silverplate, copper, etc., and gradually evolved into stoves, which are apparently now his one true love. Continue reading
Grandma at a woodburning cook stove
Courtesy of FreshInterioR
Don’t have a photo of her but this one conveys my memories, right down to the dress and hair bun. This lady is missing the full-length apron and what I called Red Cross Shoes–lace-up oxfords with about a 1.5″ heel. For more cook stove photos, click here.
That old farm house was cold and drafty. Built in early 1900’s on a farm near Popple Creek, MN, by my maternal Grandparents, Paul and Augusta Walk, it was heated with a coal heater in the dining room, which was the central room of the house. The ‘Front Room’ was closed off to conserve heat and the chimney going up through the second floor, was the only heat for the three bedrooms.
Sidebar on Popple Creek: Popple Creek is a wide spot in the road half way between Foley and Sauk Rapids, MN. At one time there was a saloon/bar where my Uncles Herman and Oscar Walk would stop by for a cold beer. I was never allowed in but am sure my brother was. Grandma’s farm was 2-3 miles NE on the Golden Spike Road and Uncle Herman and Aunt Myrtle’s farm a mile or two East; the two farms adjoined. All that’s left is an empty saloon (last time I was there) and St. John’s Lutheran Church a suitable distance down the road from the saloon.
But the Kitchen, now that was a warm and cozy spot. There was always a fire going in the cookstove plus the smaller room contained the heat. Breakfast and lunch were eaten in the kitchen and the dining room only used for supper and evening relaxation.
I asked for and got Grandma’s stove with the intention of refinishing it as a display piece in the Family room. Never could find a restorer, then moved 12 years ago and the stove parts have been taking up garage space ever since. What a rusty mess!
Warming ovens
The South Bend
This is what Grandma’s stove would have looked; even this one is not in pristine condition.
Courtesy of Auctionflex
The Malleable Steel Range A delightful nostalgic article from the Greensburg, IN Daily News
For a vicarious shopping event, see Wendy’s blog about her recent shopping spree; it won’t cost you a dime! I love it when I’m simpatico with the sales person and each fabric she brings out is better than the previous and each one inspires another garment in a direction you weren’t even remotely considering. Like Wendy’s embroidered silk when she needs/wears more casual clothes.
Hey, I have pieces like that in my stash that are decades old. Probably will never sew them, just get them out to pet and to dream; what a wonderful feeling. As mellysews says:
“Some sewists are very good at only buying fabric for a current project and not having a stash. But for the majority of us, at some point we’ll see some beautiful fabric and we’ll succumb to buying it without a project in mind.
And then it will probably happen again.
We will occasionally pet that beautiful fabric, and dream of the perfect project, but sometimes it never happens. Sometimes that fabric is fulfilling it’s purpose for us without being cut or sewn. And that’s OK, so unless our stash has grown to fire hazard/call the Hoarders producers/can’t find the sewing machine under all that fabric status, don’t mention it. We’ll love you more for letting us love our fabric.”
OK, back to the purpose of this post–one of the fabrics Wendy bought was inspired by a shirt in the store window and she already had the pattern so, a no brainer, add it to the pile. Turns out the shirt is a vintage Issey Miyake pattern (1476) from 1984. Unlike Wendy, I have made the cloak and it is now 20 years old and still in my closet.
Issey Miyake Vogue Pattern 1476
Polar Fleece Issey Cloak from 1991
Actually, I rescued it from a shelf in the garage where it resides in the summer; in the winter, it’s in the trunk of the car just in case…
I made it in polar fleece as it was the most practical and inexpensive fabric. It requires almost five yards of 60″ width. The yoke is lined with a water resistant nylon as the shoulders would be the area first hit by rain.
This was made for a football game attended at Brown University when my daughter was a freshman (1991). Can’t imagine how I got it there from Minnesota, but, those were the days before checked bag charges. It was/is the perfect bleacher garment to wrap in–even the feet.
About that game–an Ivy League football game is nothing like Midwest games with uniformed, blonde cheerleaders, mascots and Marching Bands. I remember the ‘band’ wore trench coats and played jazz–no Sousa marches there.
Anyway, I looked great and was warm!
The garment is serged and is easy to sew other than dealing with massive amounts of fabric. And, it is HEAVY. even in polar fleece. Wool coating fabric would be even weightier.
Have worn it to many MN football and hockey games and, as I said, it’s a great back up as a blanket in the car or on the airplane.
Vogue 1476 Back View
Vogue 1476 Inside; yoke lined with outerwear nylon
Vogue Pattern 1476
Envelope back
That is a great looking shirt; am sure there is the perfect fabric in my stash.
Time for a raid!
Related:
Unintentional Capsule Wardrobe
8 Things People Who Sew Wish Everyone Else Knew
Designers, retailers and the media are all touting the hottest fabric trends of Neoprene and Scuba Knit. Store displays promote colorful, sports style garments. Online fabric retailers gush over their Italian import Neoprene Scuba knits. Every fashion mag cover features Neoprene, Scuba somewhere.
The labeling of these garments and fabrics includes:
Whaaat? Never heard of any of these? Not surprising as Neoprene has only been on the fashion scene for the past 10 years, Scuba Knit even less.
The problem is none of the above terms are interchangeable (Neoprene Scuba Knit and Scuba Knit made in a Neoprene knit are just plain false-there are no such animals.) Each has it’s own specific features that affect the use and wearability. Yet retailers combine the terms, most likely hoping the consumer will recognize at least one and jump on the trend bandwagon.
Britex says it best, “Scuba knit or apparel neoprene is similar to ponte knit in weight and feel; an easy to sew, two-way stretch double-knit with a soft smooth texture and beaucoup body.”
Scuba Knit–the apparel Neoprene
The main difference between Neoprene and Scuba Knit–foam core: Neoprene has it; Scuba Knit doesn’t.
Cross section of Neoprene with foam core center.
Cross Section of Neoprene
Cross section of a Scuba Knit; a double knit
Cross Section of Scuba Knit
The following information will make you an educated consumer. As Sawyer Brook Fabrics says, “Whenever choosing a fabric, it’s important to have fiber knowledge to help you predict the behavior of the fabric that you purchase.” This is true for the sewist as well as the RTW consumer. Read on.
Below is a 2015 photo of a store display at Saks Fifth Avenue in Palm Springs, CA. This is from Clover Canyon, a LA company whose signature is the neon-hued, form fitting (think Scuba dive wear) RTW. And, a company flagrantly mislabeling their fabric. The garments pictured below are labeled “Neoprene, Scuba Knit.”
Clover Canyon Scuba Knits
Trust me, none of Clover Canyon garments have any Neoprene. Did all the tests–the touchy-feely, inside out and upside down, tried them on and have the dressing room pictures.
Dresssing room try-ons
As a Scuba Knit the prints are terrific and am hoping some manufacture overruns will show up in a fabric retailer shop. (Clover Canyon is made in LA so put a bug in your favorite retailer’s ear.)
Tahari also had lots of Scuba Knit garments but with a looser fit and a more subtle color way. This example is a mid-weight fabric so the fabric skims the body; see how the left sleeve does not drape, even on a hanger display.
This dress uses lapped seams and darts as the knit does not ravel and a lapped seam reduces bulk. A design element in this particular dress is the separating zipper applied on the outside of the garment, which also reduces bulk, and the mesh fabric right shoulder and sleeve.
Another Tahari design in a plus size. Scuba Knits do not need to be form fitting. From trying on RTW, I find the beefy weight prevents show-through on the form-fitting garments. No worries about OPL.
Scuba Knit Sheath Knit in Plus Size
Scuba Knit made with conventional seams
Scuba Knit Samples
Scuba Knit Samples
Scuba Knits are available in many colors, both solids and prints. The fabrics and garments I have seen have a solid color back to a printed right side.
Scuba Knit, right and wrong side showing ribs of double knit
Closeup of lapped seam double dart; white to left of stitching is the wrong side of fabric
Ponte knits have been around for decades and may still be referred to as Ponte di Roma due to the roman bridge knit construction. The original Ponte knits were 100% polyester; some still are. The newer Ponte may contain Lycra/Spandex and are now available in color patterns.
“A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the same on both sides. Weft knitted, interlock based, double jersey structure. Means ‘roman bridge’ which is suggested by the arrangement of loops. The fabric looks the same on both sides.” Textile Glossary
Ponte and Scuba Knits are both double knits; the main difference being the hand, feel, drape of the fabric.
Sidebar: do not rely on a fabric description. Research has found many fabrics labeled ‘Ponte’ are actually wovens. By definition, a Ponte is a double knit. Order a sample, most are free or a nominal fee.
Here ends the three-blog saga of Neoprene, Wearing Neoprene, Scuba Knit, Ponte. Do hope it is helpful.
Let’s hear your Scuba Knit/Ponte experiences and please share your Sources by leaving a comment.
Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics
Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics
I figure when a product hits the pages of WSJ, it has come of age and has the stamp of approval from the highest echelon of taste and respectability.
Imagine my surprise to find the lowly sewing machine has made it, albeit an inside back page.
Gears and Gadgets page of WSJ
The title, An Automated Stitch in Time Saves Nine, really has nothing to do with the article. Perhaps, some editor slapped it in the allotted space, just like some NYTimes Food Editor decided Grape Salad appeared on every Minnesota Thanksgiving table (turkey and wild rice were already taken).
The article does note that dry cleaners will mend a popped seam and sew on buttons but apparently owning a sewing machine to sew on a button is a lot quicker than dropping off the garment at the corner laundry.
Obviously the author hasn’t a clue of the learning curve for even the most basic machine, much less the $14,000 Bernina 880. Apparently , you can “…just kick back and let the Bernina 880 work its magic.”
But, hey, any publicity for sewing is good publicity, especially when it’s in the WSJ.
Read the article here.
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